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Heraklion, Crete Island, Greece

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Heraklion or Herakleion or Iraklion (Greek: Ηράκλειο; Italian: Candia), is the largest city and the capital of Crete. It is also the 4th largest city in Greece. Its name is also spelled Herakleion (transliteration of ancient/Katharevousa name), or Iraklio, with other variants. For centuries, it was called Candia (Greek: Χάνδαξ or Χάνδακας, Turkish: Kandiye).

Heraklion is the capital of Heraklion Prefecture. It has an international airport named after the writer Nikos Kazantzakis. The ruins of Knossos, which were excavated and restored by Arthur Evans, are nearby.

Heraklion is close to the ruins of the palace of Knossos, which in Minoan times was the biggest centre of population on Crete. So it is very likely that there was a port here as long ago as 2000 BC. There is however no archaeological evidence for such a port.

The present city of Heraklion was founded in 824 AD by the Saracens (an Arabic Muslim people). They built a moat around the city for protection, and named the city خندق Ḫandaq, 'moat'. The Saracens allowed the port to be used as a safe haven for pirates, much to the annoyance of the nearby Byzantine Empire.

In 961, the Greek Empire of Constantinople ("Byzantine Empire") under the command of Nikiforos Fokas who was later to become a Greek Emperor, attacked and defeated the city, slaughtered the Saracens, looted the city, and burned it to the ground. They remained in control of the rebuilt Khandak for the next 243 years.

In 1204, the city was bought by the Venetians as part of a complicated political deal which involved among other things, the Crusaders of the Fourth Crusade restoring the deposed Byzantine emperor Isaac II Angelus to his throne. The Venetians improved on the ditch by building enormous fortifications, most of which are still in place, including a giant wall, in places up to 40m thick, with 7 bastions, and a fortress in the harbour. Khandak was renamed to Candia in Italian and became the seat of the Duke of Candia. As a result, the Venetian administrative district of Crete became known as "Regno di Candia" (Kingdom of Candia). The city retained the name of Candia for centuries and the same name was often used to refer to the whole island of Crete as well. To secure their rule, Venetians began in 1212 to resettle families from Venice on Crete. The coexistence of two different cultures and the influence of Italian Renaissance lead to a flourishing of letters and the arts in Candia and Crete in general, that is today known as the Cretan Renaissance.

After the Venetians came the Turks of the Ottoman Empire. They besieged the city for 22 years in a bloody war in which 30,000 Greeks (Cretans) and 120,000 Turks died.[citation needed] The Venetians surrendered in 1669. Under the Ottomans, the city was known officially as Kandiye (again also applied to the whole island of Crete) but informally as Megalo Kastro 'Big Castle'. During the Ottoman period, the harbour silted up, so most shipping shifted to Hania in the west of the island.

In the period of autonomy under Great Power supervision (1898-1908), Candia was part of the British zone. With the rest of Crete, it became part of the Independent Cretan State in 1908, and was incorporated into the Kingdom of Greece in 1913. Upon its union with Greece it was renamed "Heraklion", after the Roman port of Heracleum 'Heracles' city' whose exact location is unknown.

The biggest monument of the city is the Venetian medieval fortress Rocca al Mare (also known as Koules) located at the port.

Heraklion is an important shipping port and ferry dock. The public can take ferries and boats from Heraklion to a multitude of destinations including Thira, Rhodes, Egypt, Haifa and mainland Greece.

Heraklion International Airport, or Nikos Kazantzakis Airport is located about 5km east of the city. The airport is named after Herkalion native Nikos Kazantzakis, a Greek writer and philosopher. It is the second busiest airport of Greece, mostly due to the fact that Crete is a major destination for tourists during summer. There are regular domestic flights to and from Athens, Thessaloniki and Rhodes with Aegean Airlines and Olympic Airlines. Cyprus Airlines flies to Larnaca via Rhodes. Furthermore, Sky Express operates direct flights to Aegean islands such as Rhodes, Santorini, Samos, Kos, Mytilini and Ikaria. During the summer period, traffic is intense and the flight destinations are from all over Europe (mostly Germany, UK, Italy and Russia). The airfield is shared with the 126 Combat Group of the Hellenic Air Force.

KNOSSOS: The most famous archaeological site on Crete. It contains the ruins of the largest and most luxurious Minoan palace, built in the middle of a large town. The first palace was built around 2000 B.C. and destroyed around 1700 B.C. The second one was built immediately afterward , more magnificent than the first. This was also destroyed, around 1500 B.C., most likely by the terrible eruption of the volcano on Santorini. The excavations were carried out in 1900 by the English archaeologist Arthur Evans who then reconstructed certain sections of the ruins.
  1. West Court
  2. West Propylaia
  3. Corridor of the Procession
  4. South Propylaia
  5. Tri-Columnar Hall

Crete - Herakleion : Phaistos


    The second most important town in Minoan Crete with the luxurious palace of the mythical Radamanthys, the brother of Minos. The palace was built twice. The first time around 1900 B.C. during the so-called Old Palace Period. This was destroyed by an earthquake and in 1700 B.C. a new and more luxurious one was built at its place during the New Palace Period. The second one was also destroyed, around 1500 B.C., probably by the eruption of the volcano on Santorini.

    The ruins of the second palace are what the visitor mainly sees today. Unlike the Palace of Knossos there have been no reconstructions or additions here.

    The ruins were uncovered and left untouched in the places they were found. The architecture here is like that of Knossos with the palace being built around a rectangular, oblong and flagged Central Court which is oriented from north to south. Around the palace was the large Minoan town of Phaistos.


Gortyn

For a length of 1km. after Ayioi Deka there are the r uins of a large town scattered left and right of the road; during the Roman period this was the Capital of Crete. There was a small settlement on the site of Gortyn since the late Minoan period. But Gortyn became known later during the Archaic period and reached the high point of its glory in 69 B.C. when the Romans made it the capital of the Province of Crete and Cyrenaica and built many majestic structures there, such us the Praetorium and the Odeion, next to which were found th e famous Law-Code of Gortyn carved in stone blocks. Opposite the ruins of the basilica of Ayios Titos, the road left leads after 33 km. to the coast at Lendas . Ancient Lebena was on the site of modern Lendas; it was built at the beginning of the Minoan period and flour ished much later during the Roman period when the inhabitants of Gortyn built a Temple of Asklepios there at the site of the therapeutic springs. A gorgeous sand beach at Lendas is also suitable for winter swimming.Winter is so mild that it is said the swallows spend it there. From Lendas you can visit the remote Monastery of Koudoumas by caique. On your return you follow the coast road which goes west to the marvelous sand beach of Kales Limenes where the Apostle Paul landed.


Matala

    A fishing village which just a few years ago was known as a hippy center and today has developed into a tourist resort. Matala was the port of Phaistos and later Gortyn. There are carves carved out of limestone cliffs on the sheer side of the north hill. West of Matala in the open waters of the Gulf of Messara, are two uninhabited islands, Paximadia.

Kamares

A mountain village on the slopes of Psiloreitis at a height of 600 m. It is the starting point for the climb up to the Cave of Kamares which was used as a place of worship during the Minoan period. The famous Kamares ware was found in this cave.


Elounda

A large tourist center. From here boats depart for a visit to the islet of Spinalonga (picture) with its Venetian fortress, the isle of tears, as it has been dubbed, because for 50 years this was the place of exile for lepers. You can also visit Spinaloga from Agios Nikolaos.


Agios Nikolaos, capital of the Prefecture of Lasithi, is one of the most highly developed tourist towns in Greece. It lies along the west of the Mirabello bay. The main road axis of the island passes right outside the city limits , connecting it with Iraklion (66 km) to the west, Sitia to the east (70 km) and Ierapetra to the south (36 km). Agios Nikolaos is the administrative, communications, cultural and commercial center of the Prefecture, with approximately 8500 inhabitants. The climate in the area is mild with extremely low humidity. It is an ideal place to relax and recover one's energy.  The sea in Agios Nikolaos is superb and the surrounding area of the city is noted for its sandy beaches and beautiful bays. The landmark of the city is a small lake, known as "Voulismeni" that is located in the center of the city, at the foot of the cliffs. Its shape is circular with a diameter of 137m.
According to the mythology, the goddess Athena used to take her bath in this lake. The depth of the lake is 64 m and was connected to the sea only recently, with a canal opened at 1870.
It is an especially picturesque site with many open-air cafes and restaurants along the bank. Small boats leave the harbor to visit the Venetian fortress of Spinaloga, near Elouda .
Every summer the Municipality of Agios Nikolaos organizes cultural events, music and dance events, theatrical performances, exhibitions, shows. Also, during the Naval week, artistical swimming, water skiing, wind-surfing contests are organized.

 


The "Goddess of Myrto"

Agios Nikolaos also possesses the second finest Archaeological Museum in Crete, where splendid archaeological findings from throughout the Prefecture of Lasithi are exhibited.

 


The tower of Mirabello-Old gravur

 

 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sitia

    An attractive town with a harbour and a large sandy beach. The capital of the easternmost province of Crete, it is built near the site of ancient Itea. It has many traditional villages like Sfaka (or Sphaka or Sphaca) which is the most important. The greek writing of this wonderful village is: "Σφάκα">

    The only ruins in the area are those of a Venetian castle to the east of the town. But the Province of Siteia is also one of the oldest centers of Minoan civilization as is shown by the finds at Mochlos, and the islets of Pseira and Ayios Nikolaos.

    You should not miss the Archaeological Museum and the small Folk Museum.


Zakros

A verdant village with alluring lanes. From here the the road descends to the sea passing alongside the Ravine of the Dead. Kato Zakros has a coastal settlement on a bay with pebbles and a crystal-clear sea.This area became known for the famous Minoan palace which was discovered here by Professor N. Platon in 1961. The Palace of Zakros, the fourth of the great Minoan palaces is very similar to the other three.

The difference is that the Palace of Zakros lay before a harbour which played an important role in the commercial exchanges with Egypt and other countries in the East.

The palace was destroyed the same year as the other palaces, that is around 1500 B.C.


Vai

    The renowned palm forest with a great sand beach. It is a tropical landscape which is an exception in Greece. It receives a large number of visitors who come to see the rare landscape and enjoy its marvelous sea.


Crete - Lasithi : Toplou Monastery, Kapsas Monastery


Kapsas Monastery

A turn-off left to the Monastery of Kapsas next to the Pervolakia ravine, in front of a sandy shore. The monastery was probably built in the 15th century. You return to the main route.Before it returns to Ierapetra the road passes along the endless sandy beaches on the Libyan Sea with lovely settlements such as Analipsi, Makrys Yialos, Koutsouras, Achlia, Ayia fotia and Ayioi Saranta.


Toplou Monastery

    It is a historic monastery on the northeast end of Crete, known for the struggle it waged against pirates and Turks. It was built in the 15th century, most probably on the ruins of an older monastery. It was a true fortress, and even had a cannon. It has notable relics and wonderful icons.


Kritsa
One of the largest traditional villages on the Crete with heightened tourist activity, known for its embroideries, knitwear and woven articles. In August there is a re-enactment of the famed Cretan wedding. From Kritsa ancient Lato is 3,5 km. away. Lato e Etera, as it is called to distinguish it from Lato pros Kamara, which was on the site of Ayios Nikolaos, was once a powerful town, built around the 7th century B.C.


Diktaean Andron
The road ends below the entrance to the cave. According to mythology, the cave is the place where Rhea gave birth to Zeus. The cave was a place of worship from the end of the Middle Minoan to the end of the Late Minoan period.


Archanes

You follow the road to Knossos. At the 11th km. you turn right.

Epano Archanes is a market town amid vineyards, which produces the fine rozaki grapes. In the environes of Archanes there are the old churches of the Archangel Michael and Ayia Triada, from the 14th century.

Many of the areas near Archanes are of archaeological interest such as Tourkoyeitonia, Fournoi, Anemospilia, the peak sanctuary of Jucktas and Vathypetro.


Vrontisi Monastery

    One of the most notable monasteries on Crete. It was built around 1400 and in the beginning was a monastic estate of the neighbouring Varsamonero Monastery (one of the oldest monasteries in Crete and the most important in terms of the number and the quality of its wall paintings). The monastery's fountain from the 15th century is fabulous, with wonderful sculptures depicting Adam and Eve in Paradise.

    The monastery began to flourish in 1500, when it appears the other one at Varsamonero was abandoned. It was a spiritual center and it is even said the great painter Michael Damaskinos lived and painted there.


The Palace of Malia

The third most important Minoan palace after Knossos and Phaistos. It has an area of 12,000 sq. m.

It was built like the other Minoan palaces around 1900 B.C., destroyed around 1700 B.C. and then built again more brilliant than before only to be finally abandoned in 1450 B.C. after a new calamity.


Crete - Rethymno : Arkadi Monastery


It is one of the most glorious monasteries in Greece while in Crete it is revered for the holocaust that happened there. In this monastery, on November 8, 1866, about a thousand people (monks, warriors, women and children) led by the Abbot Gabriel preferred to die by blowing up the powder magazine than to fall into the hands of the Turks.

The monastery was founded during the time of the Venetian occupation. Its high walls are reminiscent of a fortress and the church, which has a baroque facade, is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Crete. It is double-aisled and dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Savior and Agios Konstantinos and Agia Eleni.

There are many eminent relics in the monastery's museum. To go to the monastery you follow the road to Herakleion and turn right at the 5th km.

Crete - Rethymno : Plakias, Preveli's Monastery

You follow the road that goes uphill towards the village of Arenoi. Both roads at the junction on the 19th km lead to Plakias. The one straight ahead passes through the Kourtaliotiko ravine after 4 km.

On the 21st km, a branch on the left leads to Spili and Ayia Galini. After 8 km, you come across a left turn-off at Asomatos which leads after 4 km. to the Lower Monastery of Preveli .

Another 3 km. and you arrive at the Rear Monastery of Preveli (St. John the Theologian) which is the main monastery and the one that played an important role in the Cretan liberation struggles.

Two kilometers from the monastery, the road ends at a path that leads to a river with palm trees which flows through the Kourtaliotiko ravine. It is worth the effort to go there and see the lake that has formed at its mouth.

From Asomatos you return to your main route to Plakias. On the 36th km there is a branch which goes to Sfakia (42 km.) passing through the charming villages of Myrthios, Selia, Kato and Ano Rodakino.

After 4 km you finally reach Plakias. The ravishing sand beach and the beauty of the surrounding area have contributed to its spectacular development. A short distance from Plakias are the celebrated sand beaches of Damoni (2 km.) and Ammoudi (3 km.).

Spili

The lovely main village of the area at the feet of mountain Kedros. It is the capital of the Province of Ayios Vasileios, renowned for its abundant water and dense flora. There, in the square with the plane trees, the water runs from the 19 mouths of stone lions.


Anogeia

A large mountain village at a height of 740 m., which is a municipality and subject to the Province of Mylopotamos. It is near the border with the Prefecture of Herakleion.
Anogeia is well-known for its fabulous weaving with brilliant colours and the traditional Cretan designs. Its central square and lanes are full of these woven articles, which are on display for sale, giving the village a flavor all its own.

Anogeia, isolated on the north slopes of mountain Psiloreitis was a center of revolutionary activities against the Turks. During World War II it was also distinguished as a focal point of the Greek resistance against the Germans. Anogeia was horribly punished for these activities. The Germans razed it to the ground in August 1944. It was rebuilt and today is a noted tourist center. During the summer, parties are organized in the taverns at night, with Cretan dances.


Nida Plateau - Idaean Cave
At the end of the road and altitude of 1,500 m. is the Nida Plateau. Next to the road is a tourist pavilion so you can rest and enjoy the view of the plain which seems like a huge dry lake, surrounded by high mountains. A half a kilometer from the pavilion, on the rocky slopes of Psiloreitis, is the Idaean Cave. Magnificent, at the base of a gigantic rock, beneath the highest mountain on Crete, just the right place for a cave that mythology says was where Zeus, the father of all the gods, was raised.
From the Idaean Cave you can ascend to the highest peak of Mt. Idi, Timios Stavros (2,456 km.) in about 5 hours.


Kandanos
The capital of the Province of Selino. It was destroyed by the Germans because of its participation in the resistance. Many eminent Byzantine churches can be found in the surrounding villages, with walls full of paintings.




Palaiochora

    A market town with a spectacular sandy beach and warm sea. It is even suitable for swimming in winter.



Kastelli Kissamos
It is built on the site of ancient Kissamos, the port of the ancient town of Polyrrenia. Later, when it was occupied by the Romans, a new theater and Roman villas were built on top of the old town. The town then passed to the Arabs, and later the Venetians, who built a small castle (Kastelli) from which it took its new name. Kastelli is the capital of the Province of Kissamos, known for its superb wine. It has a harbour and is connected by a ferry boat to Gytheio.


Crete - Chania : Omalos, Samaria Gorge, Sfakia, Falasarna



Omalos.

    A plateau at an altitude of 1.050 m., famed for the struggles for the liberation of Crete. On the way to Samaria you can take a left turn to the Kallergis refuge in the White Mountains from where the ascent to the highest peak Mt. Pachnes (2,453 m.) is made in about 7 hours.

    From Xyloskalos you descend the celebrated Samaria Gorge, the most stupendous gorge in Europe, to the Libyan Sea. The gorge has running water, ponds and plane trees. 18 km. long, it requires about 6 hours for the walk through it, and finally ends at Ayia Roumeli. From there you can take a ship of the line to Chora Sfakion. From Sfakia you will return to Chania. You can make this excursion from May 1 to October 31.

Chora Sfakion
Isolated on the difficult to reach coast of the Libyan sea,it was the center for the revolts to liberate the island. The old houses with the folk architecture resemble Aegean architecture and are built amphitheatrically around the harbour.From Sfakia you can take excursions on a small boat to Loutro, Ayia Roumeli, Sougia, Palaiochora and the islet of
Gavdos


Falasarna
One of the most ravishing sandy beaches on the Crete with emerald waters. It is impressive for its extent and charm. At the end of the sandy beach there is is a steep and rocky hill on the top of which is the acropolis of ancient Falasarna.

Crete - Chania : Topolia, Chrysoskalitissa Monastery, Elafonissi




Chrysoskalitissa Monastery
Down on the south-west extremity of Crete is a bay with enormous black rocks. On the highest one of them is perched the most beloved but also the most remote monastery.

Topolia
A large village with the Byzantine churches of Ayios Ioannis, Ayia Paraskevi, Timios Stavros. A few kilometers beyond the village the Topolia Ravine begins. The road passes through a tunnel and arrives at the cave of Ayia Sophia. The chapel of Ayia Sophia is at its entrance.






Elafonissi

    A small island brimming with tranquility colour and light. It has a lace-like coastline and dazzling sand dunes with small cedar trees and lilies.


 
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